"I'm here," I sigh to myself. I lean over the railing of the ferry, feeling sorry for those who have just gotten off. They had to leave Martha's Vineyard, a wondrous island south of Cape Cod, Massachusetts. As the ferry moves into Vineyard Sound, I stay by the railing, waiting for the second that the island glides into sight. That's when my body relaxes with a deep release I feel at no other time of year. I'm here, in my most favorite place.

My family and I have been going to Martha's Vineyard every summer for 13 years. By family, I mean my mother, my father--when he was alive--two sisters, my brother, and all of our spouses and children. Some years, we are joined by aunts, uncles, cousins and cousins' children as well.

We are one of those increasingly rare families that actually enjoy one another's company. Every year, we set aside one or two weeks in the summer to reconvene, and take four condos in a time-sharing community, called Mattakesett, on South Beach, which is south of Edgartown.

Over the years, the Vineyard (as everyone calls it) has become our little slice of heaven. It's a healing place as well. In that magic air, we have worked out ancient sibling rivalries--with God as my witness, before I die, I will beat my brother at Scrabble--sympathized with each other through illnesses and job woes, and rejoiced in one another's successes. After we lost my father, we came back to feel him nearby. Sometimes, I swear I can see him sunning on the back porch. The wind, the smell of the air, the quality of light?they make everything seem possible. Best of all, our children, who might have just barely known each other from an odd visit here or there, have grown up and hit all their milestones together on the island: taken first steps; mastered bicycles; llearned to bodysurf; figured out not only how to get along but how to support each other.

Island places and famous faces

Martha's Vineyard is a triangular island about 20 miles long and nine miles wide. It's divided into towns with their own distinct flavor. Now pay attention: "Up Island" means west, not north; and "Down Island" means east, not south. (They're nautical terms.) Up Island--Aquinnah, Chilmark, Menemsha and West Tisbury--is less populated and more rural. (Jackie O had her famous retreat in what was then Gay Head but has since been renamed Aquinnah.) It's great for dramatic walks on the beach beneath the cliffs, as well as strolls through working fishing villages and farmlands. Down Island--Vineyard Haven, Oak Bluffs and Edgartown--is more developed. Vineyard Haven is a little artier and funkier. Oak Bluffs is where, historically, African-Americans have come to relax, and their culture is reflected there. Edgartown is rather dignified?you can easily imagine ladies in long dresses from the whaling years sweeping along its quaint streets. We have explored all of it and, along the way, have created our own rituals. The first night, we all go down to the beach as the sun sets. In that inimitable orange glow, the adults tell the children not to get wet. "It's too late, too cold; the waves are too wild!" we scream pointlessly into the wind. Not even pretending to listen, the kids throw themselves fully clothed into the waves. We troop home, shivering, but filled with anticipation. We're here, we're here, we're here.

The rest of the week revolves around making sure we get to do our favorite things. The Saturday morning West Tisbury Farmer's Market sells burstingly fresh produce, most homegrown and organic, as well as homemade pies, jellies, pesto and salsa. More important, it's a prime place for celebrity spotting. The Vineyard has always attracted famous visitors, but ever since the Clintons discovered the island a decade ago, an increasing number of high-profile faces have been popping up. We award points based on how good the celebrity is. So far, we've spied Kevin Costner, Walter Cronkite and John F. Kennedy, Jr. (shirtless, on a bicycle!) before his tragic death.

Lobster rolls are a must for the nonkosher among us. We shun the mayonnaise-filled ones at restaurants and seafood stores and go for those at the church bazaars -- theirs are lusciously chunky. Then there's raspberry picking at Thimble Farm. At the Flying Horses Carousel in Oak Bluffs (it dates back to 1876), we can actually grab a brass ring. We rent kayaks at Wind's Up in Vineyard Haven and paddle around an ocean cove, picking out the houses we'll buy when we hit it rich. (You can take windsurfing or sailing lessons there, too.) And nature lovers can visit the Polly Hill Arboretum, with its brilliant flora and walking trails, and the Felix Neck Wildlife Sanctuary, which offers hiking trails through marshlands, oak woods, and around the saltwater and freshwater ponds.

Bikin', beachin' . . . and hangin'

Blessedly flat, the island is a paradise for bicyclists. We generally bike into town to avoid parking hassles or over to Morning Glory Farm, a farm stand with aromatic produce. The more hardy of us challenge ourselves with an annual "Tours de la Vineyard de Martha," a 25-mile bike trek around the island.

But what we really do best is hang at the beaches. They're just the way New England beaches should be?dunes, sea grass, beach plums and screaming gulls, hot but not too hot, with an enticing breeze. The water is warm enough to go in, and the waves can get pretty wild. Sitting on a blanket, as the afternoon drifts mindlessly on (glasses of iced tea in hand, children shrieking in the waves), we'll say, "You know, it really doesn't get any better than this."

Admittedly, Martha's Vineyard is expensive and getting more so every year. Lately, we've been wondering how much longer we can swing this. We talk about finding another, more affordable place. But then we think, Not come back? As my father would have said: "Don't talk crazy talk."

Island pleasures:

Martha's Vineyard is an island south of Massachusetts. Its sister island, Nantucket, is to its southeast. To get to Martha's Vineyard, you need to take the ferry from Woods Hole, Massachusetts. If you want to bring your car, reservations are required daily from June 20 through July 8, as well as for Fridays, Saturdays, Sundays and Mondays through September 1 (Steamship Authority: $5.50 per adult one-way; $55 per car one-way; 508-477-8600). Start calling in January for summer reservations. You can also fly into Martha's Vineyard Airport (Edgartown-West Tisbury Road, West Tisbury; 508-693-7022). For real estate listings, maps, news and events, check out the Vineyard Gazette (mvgazette.com). Also, contact the Martha's Vineyard Chamber of Commerce (508-693-0085; mvy.com).

Where to stay:

Duck Inn, 10 Duck Pond Way, Aquinnah, MA 02535; 508-645-9018. (Summer rates: from $115 per night.)

The Admiral Benbow Inn, 81 New York Ave., Oak Bluffs, MA 02557; 508-693-6825. (Summer rates: from $140 per night.)

Martha's Vineyard Surfside Motel, 7 Oak Bluffs Ave., Oak Bluffs, MA 02557; 800- 537-3007. (Summer rates: from $150 per night.)

Martha's Vineyard Family Campground, 569 Edgartown Road, Vineyard Haven, MA 02568; 508-693-3772. (Summer rates: $38 for a campsite or

$42 for a trailer site. One- room cabins, $100 daily; two-room cabins, $120 daily.)

For house rentals, try All Season's Vacation Rental Network, weneedavacation. com; or Linda R. Bassett's Sales & Vacation Rentals,

800-338-1855. (Summer rates: from $1,250 per week.)

 

Where to eat:

Atria, Upper Main Street, Edgartown; 508-627-5850; atriamv.com. Go for its classic Vineyard clambake. You'll dine alfresco on lobsters, mussels, clams, chowder (many napkins provided!) and freshly brewed mint iced tea. (Prix fixe for adults: $50; there's a fine- dining menu as well.)

Beach Plum Inn Restaurant, 50 Beach Plum Lane, Menemsha; 508-645-9454. Regional American food with a French influence ($30 to $60).

Linda Jean's Restaurant,

25 Circuit Avenue, Oak Bluffs; 508-693-4093. Hamburgers, sandwiches and salads ($10 to $15).

Lola's Southern Seafood Restaurant, Beach Road, Oak Bluffs; 508-693-5007. Don't miss its gospel brunch ($14.95; regular menu, $20 to $40).

 

Things to do:

Rent bikes at R.W. Cutler Bike Shop, 1 Main Street, Edgartown; 508-627-4052; edgartownbikerentals.com ($20 per day; $75 per week).

Visit Aquinnah Lighthouse, at the intersection of State and Lighthouse Roads, Aquinnah; 508-627-4441. Open to the public during sunset on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays in the summer, weather permitting ($3).

Go to Chappaquiddick Island. Take the ferry from Chappaquiddick Ferry Company, Dock Street, Edgartown; 508-627-9427 (round-trip fares: $1.50,

individual; $6, car and driver; $4, bicycle and rider; $5.50, moped and rider).

Don't miss Mad Martha's Ice Cream Parlor (various locations), home of the Pig's Delight -- a veritable tub of ice cream, toppings and sauce.

Published in Lifetime, July/August 2003